So we left of sanding to 80grit. Now we move on to 120. But this time we sand 90 degrees to the direction we sanded last time. This makes it really easy to see where you need to sand more.
Keep sanding until you can no longer see any scratches in the long direction. Next do the cheeks, same gig.
Looking good! You deserve an Otter pop or two... Now on to 220 grit. Same idea, rotate 90 degrees and sand until all scratches in the other direction are gone. Then to finish off, for a 'brushed' look, sand along the edge of the sandpaper in one direction parallel to the edge of the sandpaper. Go slow and as straight as possible and you'll end up with a fantastic looking finish like this one:
hmm... something went wrong and I didn't get a picture of the final sanding pass to get the brushed look, but the pictures of the cheeks are right.
And we are done! Turns out that getting a good flat surface ended up cleaning up all the big scratches and gouges out of the sole, but I left some in the cheeks so there is some evidence of it's previous life.
Time to start getting ready to replace the Japanning. Japanning was a tar-like paint which was very durable and used as a protective coating on many tools before more modern coatings were invented. Many folks that restore planes will just use a rattle can of black paint and call it good. Some claim a decent color match, but in my opinion it just doesn't look right. Japanning has something of a brown tint to it and a look that had some depth. It also floods out the details of the roughness of the casting, paint doesn't quite do that. So I'm going to try to reproduce that original look. After digging about on the information super highway, I found a recipe that should get me the look that I'm going for.
I can't do an exact recreation as the chemicals and processes used to make the original are not available to purchase and/or are too dangerous. The base material in Japanning is Asphaltum, and as the name suggests, it's a tar like material. You would melt down the Asphaltum, thin it with solvents, and mix it into a binder which would help to harden the material. Since I don't think Laura wants me to mix up that stew on the stove, I've found something that should do the trick.
There are a few recipes floating about, but this is the one that came up most often. If you care for more info, read here: http://www.woodcentral.com/articles/handtools/articles_117.shtml
The paint recipe is 3 parts Asphaltum, 5 parts turpentine, and 3 parts boiled linseed oil. The thinking is that the turpentine will act as a solvent and slowly break down the asphaltum powder into a goo. Then when applied the turpentine will slowly evaporate leaving the asphaltum and BLO. Then you cook it all in an oven and in theory you should be left with a very hard and durable coating that looks very similar to the original.
Asphaltum powder can be found on the interwebs sold as glisonite. Can be found in artist supply stores.
All the needed supplies. I didn't care to ruin Laura's good measuring spoons/cups, so I opted for a tiny red plastic cup... You know, the kind that you use for teaching small children to drink out of a cup... this cup would have no other purpose....
Mix per the recipe, remember that turpentine smells awful, and let it sit for a few days. In the mean time, work on finding a cheap/free toaster oven. This should be a pretty stinky adventure. Also, time to remove all last bits of rust and tape off areas that aren't to be coated.






